Rock Climbing Study Guide
History:  It is generally thought that the sport of rock climbing began in the last quarter of the nineteenth century in various parts of Europe.  Rock climbing evolved gradually from an alpine necessity to a distinct athletic activity.  Climbing techniques, equipment and ethical considerations have evolved steadily, and today, free climbing (climbing on holds made entirely of natural rock, using gear solely for protection and not support) is the most popular form of the sport.

Safety Tips:

• When you are belaying keep your eye on your climber at all times
• Use names when going through commands
• Always have a back-up to the belayer holding the extra rope
• When the climber is coming back down, let them come down very slowly and let them come down until they are sitting on the matt
• Before climbing the belayer and climber should check each other’s harnesses and carabineers to make sure they are secure
• When you are not involved in climbing, belaying or being a back-up, you should not be horsing around.  Find a way to help out your group.
• Use your communication skills well
• When belaying dominate hand should never leave the rope
• The belayer’s area should be free of equipment, rope and debris
• Pull long hair back and remove jewelry
• USE COMMON SENSE

Climbing Commands:                                                     Descending Commands:
“On Belay”  :  “Belay is On”                                           “Take” :  “Show me your hands”
“Climbing” :  “Climb-on”                                                “Ready to lower” : “Lowering”
“Off Belay”  :  “Belay is Off

CLIMBING GLOSSARY

Anchor – A set-up that supports a belay system for top-roping or lead climbing. Anchors can be natural - such as trees, boulders or cockstones - or artificial, such as bolts, camming devices, nuts, etc.
Belay – To protect a roped climber from falling by passing the rope through, or around, any type of friction enhancing belay device. Before belay devices were invented, the rope was simply passed around the belayer's hips to create friction.

Belay Device – A mechanical device used to create friction when belaying by putting bends in the rope. Many types of belay device exist, including ATC, Grigri, Reverso, Sticht plate, figure eight and tuber. Some belay devices may also be used as descenders.
Bouldering – The practice of climbing on large boulders. Typically this is close to the ground, so protection takes the form of crash pads and spotting instead of belay ropes.
Bucket – A large handhold.
Carabiner – A metal snap link with a spring loaded gate that can be used as a connector for belaying or any climbing attachment.
Clean – To complete a climb without falling or resting on the rope.

Climbing Command – A short phrase used for communication between a climber and a belayer.

Clipping In – The process of attaching to belay lines or anchors for protection.
Crank – To pull on a hold as hard as possible.

Crash Pad – A thick mat used to soften landings or to cover hazardous objects in the event of a fall.

Crimp – A hold which is only just big enough to be grasped with the tips of the fingers.

Crux – The most difficult portion of a climb.

Downclimbing – To descend by climbing downward, typically after completing a climb.

Fall – An undesirable downward motion, hopefully stopped by a rope.

Figure Eight Follow-Through Knot – The Figure-8 Follow-Through Knot is the best and most common knot for tying a climber and his harness into a rope (called the tie-in knot). It’s usually used because it is the strongest knot and is the least likely knot to come untied when weighted.

Free Climbing – Climbing without unnatural aids, other than used for protection.

Free Solo – Climbing using only the rock to move upward. Placed protection is used to minimize a potential fall.
Harness – A sewn nylon webbing device worn around the waist and thighs that is designed to allow a person to safely hang suspended in the air.

Lead Climbing – A form of climbing in which the climber places anchors and attaches the belay rope as they climb (traditional) or clips the belay rope into preplaced equipment attached to bolts (sport).

Overhang – A section of rock or ice that is angled beyond vertical.

Pendulum – Swinging on taut rope either to reach the next hold in a pendulum traverse or after a fall when the last piece of protection is far to either side.

Pumped – 1) To have such an accumulation of lactic acid in the flexor digitalis (forearm) that forming even a basic grip becomes impossible. Often easy activities such as holding a camera become difficult or impossible.  2) Sometimes also used to refer to a feeling of excitement and energy before a climb. The double meaning is often a source of great frustration if without context.

Rappel – The process by which a climber may descend on a fixed rope using a friction device. Also known as Abseil or roping down.

Roof – Horizontal overhang.

Rope – Rope comes in two categories: Dynamic and Static. Dynamic rope is used in climbing because the elongation of the rope helps to dissipate the load on the climber, belayer and anchor. Static rope has minimal stretch and is typically used in caving and military applications. Most ropes utilize a “Kern Mantel “system consisting of a core of braided or twisted nylon (Kern) and a sheath (Mantel) surrounding the core.

Slack – Portion of rope that is not taut, preferably minimized during belay.

Smearing – To use friction on the sole of the climbing shoe, in the absence of any useful footholds.

Sport Climbing – A style of climbing where form, technical (or gymnastic) ability and strength are more emphasized over exploration, self-reliance and the exhilaration of the inherent dangers involved in the sport. Sport climbing routes tend to be well protected with pre-placed bolt-anchors and lends itself well to competitive climbing.

Summit – The high point of a mountain or peak.  To reach such a high point.

Top Rope – To belay from a fixed anchor point above the climb.

Traditional Climbing – A style of climbing that emphasizes the adventure and exploratory nature of climbing. While sport climbers generally will use pre-placed protection, many traditional (or "trad") climbers will place their own protection as they climb, generally with a rack.

Traverse – 1) To climb in a horizontal direction.  2) A section of a route that requires progress in a horizontal direction.
Undercling – A hold which is gripped with the palm of the hand facing upwards.